The Sew Over It Silk Cami

The Sew Over It Silk Cami was a bit of an accidental make. Yes, I am incredibly late to the camisole party when it comes to sewing my own. However, you do have to let me off, as I have only been sewing my own clothes for 18 months, so this pattern wasn’t even really on my radar until this summer.

This summer I had decided that I needed to make myself some camisole tops to go underneath some floaty outer kimono style garments. And in preparation I had actually bought myself a True Bias Ogden Camisole paper pattern. But then pattern swap 2019 happened, and I noticed that this camisole pattern was one of the most hotly sought after.

The Sew Over It Silk Cami

Sew Over It London brought out this pattern quite some years ago, well before I even considered a sewing hobby. Now they only sell the Silk Cami pattern as a pdf download.

(See here my post on the Sew Over It Heather pattern, that also only comes as a pdf. And I discuss the pros and cons of a pdf pattern!)

But a couple of years ago, Simply Sewing Magazine produced a special edition paper copy of the pattern and gave it away free with the magazine. It was this pattern that some swappers were offering. I was lucky enough to claim one for myself!

However, when it arrived I realised why some people were swapping it. My copy didn’t come with any instructions! Turns out, the instructions had been printed inside the magazine, so lots of people possibly had this pattern, but not the instructions. However, if you go onto the Sew Over It London website, there is a brilliant sew along tutorial. Phew!

The Sew Over It Silk Cami is marked as a pattern for a beginner, and comes in sizes 6 to 20. It does give finished garment measurements, but I still always make a wearable toile ( find out why in this post). Depending on your shape you may need to alter the pattern slightly.

Suggested fabrics include silk, rayons, cotton lawn or crepe. I wanted my toile to be an easy make. Thinking that silk or viscose may be a little too slippy, I decided to make a wearable toile in this pretty strawberry cotton lawn.

Cutting Instructions

I cut the size 20 based on the finished garment sizes.

The layout and cutting plan in the instructions for the top are really quick and easy to work out and see. There are only 4 pieces to cut out, 2 main body pieces and 2 facing pieces.

 Sewing Up The Pattern

Sewing up the Sew Over It Silk Cami was easy, but it did introduce me to the new concept of French Seams. I’d never done one before. This keeps the inside looking really pretty and gives a really good finish, sealing the unfinished raw edges inside the seam itself.

The online sew along tutorial is really amazing, and holds your hand every step of the way. However, I really didn’t enjoy fitting the facings. They didn’t really lay flat however much I pressed. Probably didn’t help that my cotton lawn was semi sheer and you could really see the facing through the lawn. Maybe the facings lie better in a drapy fabric? Perhaps facings are just my nemesis? It also didn’t help that my overlocker chewed up the delicate fabric, making the facing bottom edge puckered, so in the end I cut off the overlocked edge and left the facing raw!

Anyway, at this point I was glad that I had made a wearable toile, as the front armhole for me was very large. I always end up with excess of fabric at the armpit. It is just my shape.

When I make my next ones I will place a dart in the armhole, and use bias binding to finish the neckline and armholes. I don’t know what it is, but facings do not seem to agree with me! Because I will be bias binding the armhole rather than facing it, a dart in the arm scythe will not make a difference to the finish. Or I could alternatively make some alterations to my front facing to match the armhole adjustment.

See this post for how you can easily make some matching or pretty contrast bias binding for your project.

The Finished Top

This is a fabulous, easy and quick pattern. It is a brilliant example of a beginners pattern. For a more expert sewist I am sure that it could be easily made in an hour. It is also incredibly easy to wear. A pull over the head, throw-over style. Even suits me as a larger size 18 – 20 lady. It’s perfect for those summer days that we are promised.

The facings didn’t work for me, but then I really do struggle with facings. I am sure that if I remake it with a slipper material, I will be even happier not to be using facings.

It is perfect as a top for the summer months, but is also versatile enough to be used as a layering garment under clothes in winter. There is such a lot of versatility to this pattern that it is a valuable addition to anyones pattern stash.

Fancy getting your hands on this pattern? Buy it here! Or you may be able to find a paper copy on eBay.

Minerva and MyFabrics have some great cotton lawn fabrics.

Why not pin this post for later?